Although this sounds rather complex, it really isn’t. This tutorial demonstrates how an applied purled I-Cord can be worked across a piece of knitted fabric, to add a key feature or structure. Ideally, a purled ridge will have been worked in the fabric wherever the applied I-cord is intended, as this gives the neatest results.
This tutorial has been written to support my Asymloche design, however the principles can be applied in many areas. It also looks identical to the ‘Purled I-cord 3-Needle Bind-off’ and together than can be used in various parts of your knitting, depending on need, for striking results. It may be that the I-cord will be worked at 90 degrees to the fabric, or it may be that short rows have been placed to ensure the purled ridge (and resulting I-cord) sit at an altogether different angle.
1) If you’re starting this applied I-Cord from an edge, the neatest method of starting the I-cord is to pick up (and knit) the 3sts from the edge of the work. Ideally a purl ridge will be in the fabric, and it’s neatest to have this aligned at the centre of the 3sts.
2) Slip the 3sts to the left working needle, take the yarn to the back, and work one round as per regular purled I-cord.
3) Slip the 3sts back to the left working needle; purl the first 2 sts, and slip the next stitch, keeping the yarn in front.
4) At this point you want to pick up the st from your ridge, onto which the I-cord will be applied. For the strongest and neatest effect, pick up both the top and bottom loops of the ridge – they are half a stitch out, and this helps secure the I-cord.
5) Having picked up both halves of the ridge, place them onto the left hand working needle.
6) Then purl these two loops together
7) Then pass the slipped stitch over. Slip the 3 I-cord sts back to the left working needle, take the yarn to the back, and continue to work the applied purled I-cord by repeating from step 3. How you finish the I-cord depends on context and pattern instructions.
8) The row gauge of the applied I-cord will likely differ from the gauge of the fabric – to compensate for the difference, and to avoid any puckering, you will want to work one plain round of purl I-cord every 3 or 4 joined/decreases sts if you’re working at 90 degrees to the fabric direction.
As always, if you have a question about this technique or need some help with it, leave a comment below! I’m afraid I’m unable to offer help via email or private message but you’re welcome to post in our forums.